Guide Exchange to Norman Carr Safaris

After a week visit to London, England which we enjoyed very much, Fay and I boarded a British Airways flight to Lusaka, Zambia. Once we cleared customs and paid $50.00 each for our visa, we boarded a domestic flight to Mfuwe where we were met by our hosts from Norman Carr Safaris. Despite my protests, Aubrey, our guide, lugged all of our luggage to the waiting Toyota Land Cruiser that we rode, Clampett style, to Kapani Lodge. We were greeted by our hosts of this guide exchange, and wisked away to our very comfortable quarters. We freshened up in time for the drums to call us to lunch on the deck overlooking the ox bow lagoon. For the next three weeks we were catered to like kings and queens. We did two safaris per day beginning at dawn and ending with a night drive after dark. All the safaris were within the boundries of South Luangwa National Park, to see the wildlife we only formerly saw in zoos or at the circus. Every safari was an adventure, never knowing what was around the next corner or hiding in the grass beside the track. I now know what some of our guests feel like as I drive the boat up to a grizzly bear. I don't mind telling you that I felt quite nervous when our guides drove up to a leopard, lion or elephant. One elephant flapped it's large ears and trumpeted it's personal space boundry into Fay's heightened senses. She sat right beside me, for all the good that was going to do, but I enjoyed her faith. I did feel my own insecurity when our guides drove us up to within one leap of a leopard and lions. I became more at ease as time went by and the large cats paid us little attention. There is a magical beauty about being so close to the apex predators that we have all read about, no matter which continent we are on.

One of Norman Carrs specialties is the "Walking Safari." This is similar to our "tracking tours" we do at Knight Inlet Lodge, where we walk in the bush with the residents and predators. A guide and an armed scout lead us for a 3 or 4 hour walk through the bush veldt observing the animals, birds, plants and any sign that we come across. Our scout and our guide have had a lifetime experience in this wilderness and are walking encyclopedias of African information, lore and tales. On one of these tours, we came across a leopard kill hanging in a Leadwood tree. These experienced guides had never seen3 kills in one tree before, a puku and 2 impala. We decided we would come back after dark to try and catch the cat with the kill, but the cat had already taken one impala from the tree by the time we came back. We witnessed elephants tusseling, skulls and horns from past kills, and enjoyed the interpretation of our guides as we took in all the sights, sounds and smells. In the background is a steady cacophony of calls from doves, hippos, protective impala and birds. As much as the sounds are a part of the African bush, I never found it unpleasant.

The Luangwa River is the backbone of this ten thousand square kilometer park. The main channel is about 1/4 mile across when contained within it's silty banks, but swells to overflowing during the wet season in January and February. This annual flood is the rejuvenation of all the oxbows, waterholes and drainages of the flat valley. The backcountry is impassible with vehicles so boats are used for safaris. The wildlife are confined to high ground until the waters receed. Before the rains come, these same animals are forced to congregate near the river for the only water available.

I really enjoyed the architecture of the trees in this park. Stately and massive Baobab trees support colonies of bees and birds in it's huge crown. Light colored green Leadwood dies off to leave it's bleached skeleton to be used for nesting and roosting as well as firewood. Flat topped and thorny Acacia provide browse for giraffe and the Mopani trees are prefered by elephant. Giant fig trees, with their massive limbs, provide sweet fruit for baboons, birds and elephant. Elephant will eat anything it seems.

Luangwa park is a spectacular destination for birdwatchers from around the world. Over 400 species live or migrate through here, and I added 120 new species to my list. Stately storks, kingfishers, doves, ducks and geese, as well as ugly vultures and colorful lovebirds are just a few of the bird sights to see daily.

Snakes, lizards and crocodiles lurk in the lagoons and the river, keeping local fishermen alert and awake as they jig for their families meals. We saw python, spitting cobra, water monitors and crocs of all sizes. Just because they may be small, they will still take a finger off.

If ever anyone is interested in joining an African Safari with real bush experiences, blending the traditional and modern comforts of home, join Norman Carr Safaris. They are safe, knowledgeable, courteous and fun. The food is great, accomodation comfortable, drinks are cold, and the staff is accomodating to the highest standards.

Season 2010 Begins

The 2010 season began on Feb 22 with a thrilling ride under the fog and just above the water in a helicopter. Knight Inlet Lodge looked sound and secure as the dogs greeted us when we landed safely.

We quickly got the water and the heater turned on in our quarters . Our luggage was safely stowed and we soon had lunch ready. We were here early to begin the annual salmon out migration count. After last falls tremendous migration of pink salmon from the Pacific we are expecting very large numbers of fry. In the next couple days we were busy setting up the fry splitter trap at the Glendale River spawning channel and the rotary screw trap in the river, about a half mile downstream. There had obviously been some major high water events over the winter as there were new log jams and more erosion along the river banks. Hopefully these floods did not do too much damage to the salmon redds as they waited for their precious eggs to hatch.

It was unusual to catch the first fry before the end of February, but we did this year. The winter was warmer than normal so the eggs would have hatched a bit sooner. We had between 50 and 100 pink fry in the 5% box everyday in Feb. 100 fry equals about 2000 fry leaving the spawning channel every day. As the season progresses the numbers get bigg daily. The peak that I saw and counted was on March 26, when there were 64838 grams of fish at 3.79 fry per gram translates to 245,736 fry in the 5% holding box. That is potentially 1,149.845 pinks went over the weir in the past 24 hours. Many days toward the end of March were over 1 million fish or close to it. When I left on April 5 we had counted over 13 million fry which had left the spawning channel. This is quite a sight to see when you open the box and can't see the bottom for fry swimming around. Every scoop of the net holds thousands of fish. You can stand at the end of the weir and watch the fry resting in a holding pool trying to avoid the rushing water that leads them to the trap. They are not hurt as the waters take them gently through this obstacle, one of thousands they will encounter on their long journey. The river will be much more hazardous for them.

Downstream sits the RST, anchored to the river bank. This trap floats on top of the water, trying to monitor the salmon fry run in the river. It is not nearly as accurate as the weir because there are too many other channels that the fish can use. This year there is a new log jam just upstream from this trap, so that effects where the fry go in the channel. The one notable fact we see this year is the total absence of chum salmon. Normally we would have about 15 to 20 percent of the fry caught in the RST be chum. This year it is very rare to see even one chum salmon.

I also monitor the bird life that hang around the estuary for the winter. The highlight for me are the Trumpeter swans. This year there are 19 swans living in the river mouth. That is the same count as the previous two years. Mallards, Canada geese and common mergansers are the largest flocks of birds. 13 different species in the end of Feb. Mar 14 that number increased to 19, but there were only 2 swans left. I even saw one pied bald robin for the first time. By the first of April I noticed the first Common loons and the Barrows Goldeneyes had replaced the common goldeneye.

Pacific White sided dolphins and harbor seals were common visitors. I watched the seals feeding on herring around the quiet waters of the lodge. A sudden splash as the herring ball jumped out of the water trying to avoid becoming a seal meal often stopped us to watch this dramatic action. In the clear water we often witnessed the chase underwater.

We also spend some time getting the lodge ready for the season. Busses and equipment all have to be serviced and started. Supplies have to be checked out and ordered, firewood is cut and chopped, meals are prepared and dishes washed by ourselves. We are all very capable cooks, so it is fun to do.

For the first time, we raised a batch of Coho eggs over the winter. The local coho were caught and eggs stripped and fertilized then installed into the incubator. Over the long winter it was the caretakers job to make sure they survived. April 2 we turned them loose into the cap trough in the interpretive center for the summer. They even began eating within a day or so.

In the evenings, I have been busy editing my latest book. The publisher edited it once, sent it back to me for a bit of rewriting, then I sent it back. Only a couple minor changes the second time around and it is ready for the design stage. The Wild Salmon Odysey should be out this summer. Seasons of the Grizzly continues to sell with the new assistance of a distributor Sandhill Books.

I have also been counting the days to when Fay and I will head out on our first major holiday. We are going to London, then Zambia for a month. We are counting our dollars, cruising the internet, buying cloths and gear in preparation for this event. We are both very excited to be able to have this opportunity. This is a guide exchange with a camp called Norman Carr Safaris, so we get the freedom of their camps and will bring one of their guides back here when we come home. I think Aubrey is as excited as we are.

The lodge will open for the season on May 15, and I am looking forward to my fourth season.

End of Season 2009

This is always a sad time of year for me. I have wished the bears the best for the hibernation season. Each one of them has become a friend, once again reaquainted for a short time. Some of the bears like Lenore and BPll, I had the honor of visiting almost everyday from when Lenore presented us with her newest cub last June. This little tyke was very healthy and lively from the get go. It dutifully followed Lenore around as they explored this wonderful new world full of interesting sights, contradictions and tasteful food surprises. Eating sedge, rolling rocks for squishy, slurpy and squiggley morsels hidden beneath, wonderful sweet and sour berries to the mainstay of the year; the salmon feast. Both Mom and daughter looked to be very fat and healthy when I last saw them in the middle of Oct.
Bonnie was also a steady visitor to the cove all summer and fall. She was on her own this year, no sign of Clyde, so he must have wandered off to make his mark in new territory. Good luck young friend. We all watched as Bonnie was transformed to a beautiful dark colored, healthy looking sub-adult foraging for her food supply with confidence and knowledge.
Patches returned this fall to the spawnning channel all by herself again this season. I was full of hope to see her with a couple youngsters in tow, but not this season. She is an exotic looking bear with her multi colored coat, dark eyes and frosted ears. She still seems to be very calm and serene in her actions and tolerance of the other bears and human visitors.
"Pretty Boy" was around almost all season. He is a young male to whom we were first introduced to very dramatically, one spring day, as he chased and mated with a cute female on the beach below the clam. He is so handsome with his shiney coat, not a hair out of place nor a scar to mark his gorgeous countenance. If he keeps fooling around in Bruno's mating area, I suspect that he will gain a few scars over the next few years.
Bruno was the first grizzly bear I saw last spring as he patrolled the beach searching for the late arriving females. His prominent white scar leaves no room for mis-identification here. Bruno stayed here longer than other years but by the mid Sept. he had left for parts unknown. Hopefully the springtime drama will continue with him as a full time actor.
This fall, there were two moms each with twin, two year old boys fishing the Glendale river system. Both were repeat visitors from last year, recognizable by the white band of hair in front of one of the cubs front shoulders. This year they are much more adept at fishing with greater confidence as they forage amongst the other bears.
There were bears this year who may have been here before judging by their actions whenever we visitors showed up. Most of them were females with very large, healthy fat butts waddling through the water to their familiar and favored fishing holes. There was one female who had a huge chunk of hide missing off here right ham, slowly healing as the autumn progressed. There was a large male who also had a large chunk of hide freshly torn off in the last month or so, this wound on the left ham. Both these bears did not seem hampered by their wounds as they fished in the polluted river. Rotten fish and feces from all the birds and bears doing their business did not contaminate these open wounds.
Our best surprise of the fall was the mother of "The Gang" showing up with a new set of triplets, including a white, an almost black and a grizzled looking cub. The white cub has captivated all our hearts because of the rareity of seeing a possible grizzly "Spirit Bear." Photos of this rare sighting are surgeing around the globe and will be featured prominantly in a show due to be aired during the winter olympic games. NBC was here for three days of shooting and had a great visit with this bear family. Watch for this show airing sometime in the morning olympic coverage on the Today Show with host Lester Holt.
Our guests are going to be missed as much as the bears. Once again I see how after just a day or two, friendships are formed through a common love of all wild creatures. Many of these people leave a lump in my throat as I watch the floatplane leave the dock, knowing that we may never meet again. I get comfort in knowing that we have gained support and made aware to the world how valuable healthy wilderness is for the long term.
I would also like to thank the people I work and live with through the common seasonal challenges of weather, water and bears. It all works because we all have a genuine concern for the well being of the environment of the cove and on the dock.
The bears are the honorable hosts of the Glendale going on about the business of making a living. I help guide our enthusiastic guests to this amazing corner of the world as witness' to these animal's valiant struggles to continue their unique way of life and the constant struggle for survival in an unforgiving land.
Thank you all for these expiriences and please stop the trophy hunt of the grizzly bears.

New Baby Bear

This past week a new baby bear showed up. Nothing unusual you say, but this one is special. It is a white grizzly, a female with two siblings. A set of triplets to a female bear who has already raised one set of triplets successfully. We watched last spring as this mother turned her two and a half year old triplets loose onto the world. She then disappeared during the spring mating season and we wondered if she was going to mate and what was the result going to be. This week she showed up at her favorite fishing hole as she did the past two seasons. What a surprise she brought with her. Two very dark colored cubs with a very white with dark highlights cub. These siblings are normal in every way, fun loving, scrappy, hungry, devoted and obedient to Mom. They all try to catch fish, steal a drink of mom's rich milk and watch for dangers. Of course, like all young animals, they are all very cute and cuddly. This brings up the question: Is this a rare grizzly "Spirit Bear?" I am sending photos to smarter people then I am to find out some answers. It is not an Albino.
This brings some pressing questions to mind. How do we protect this precious animal from poachers and of course much easier, licensed hunters? There is still a legal hunt for grizzly bears taking place in this province. It is illegal to hunt cubs or moms with cubs, but once these bears are free from their mothers, they are legal to hunt. What a trophy it would be for a hunter to get: a rare grizzly spirit bear.
Alberta has banned grizzly hunting about two or three years ago. I wonder why the B.C. government insists on a continued hunt for these magnificent animals.

Salmon have Returned

We have waited all season with bated breath for the annual run of Pink Salmon to arrive around the end of July 2009. Very few had arrived as the lodge shut down for its break during the last week of July. When we returned on the 31 July, a few more were here and the Grizzly Bears were hungrily waiting at the mouth of the river. There were few fish to catch and we began to come to conclusions that the Pinks were indeed going extinct as has been prophesized by many environmentalists. The second week of August corrected our thinking as a large numbers of fish arrived in the cove and began moving up the shallow Glendale River. The run has continued throughout August and there are still large numbers of Pinks waiting at the river mouth and in the estuary. Since we have had very little rain throughout the summer and there have been many temperature records broken for heat, the water in the lakes and rivers is very low and too warm to be healthy for fish. As the spawnning channel filled with fish, an estimated 6000 to 8000 fish perished in the warm, oxygen depleted water. The DFO decided to increase the water flow from Tom Browne lake and close the weir to any more fish for the time being. The die off has stopped as the fish await the time to spawn. The Glendale river has had a die off also as the fish wait in the pools while they ripen and prepare for their life mission to be completed. With the river being so low and the fish spread out along the full length of the spawnning channel and the river, the bears have had a very easy time of fishing. They do not have to congregate in large stressful numbers around prime fishing holes. Times are good for the bears and they have already started to look fat and healthy. There are 2 females each with 2 male, 18 month old cubs. These family groups are a great joy to watch as they playfully learn to fish. The cubs don't worry too much if the salmon escapes their inexpirienced claws because the next meal is right there. Moms are teaching the cubs to eat only the choice parts of the fish so as to gain the highest number of calories per mouthful. Delicate and tastey salmon roe, brains and beautiful pink flesh are eaten with relish. We can hear the bones crack and the flesh tear as the salmon is torn apart by the powerful animals. The smell of rotting fish permeates the air and the sounds of the water is drowned out by the calls of the Gulls, Ravens, Crows and Eagles who have also gathered for this annual feast.
Also present is a large male who appears to be courting and young female bear. Most mating is thought to happen and be completed by July, but we should not jump to conclusions when we witness this behavior in front of our eyes. We will continue to monitor this courtship.
Patches has returned for the third season looking fat and healthy, but with no cub in tow. I had assumed last year that she may be due for a family soon, maybe next year.
I believe I saw Princess 1 time this season. She was not on her usual rocky perch, rather she patrolled the river under the tree stand one day. As this is the first season for her to be on her own, she will be a very nervous and cautious bear.
The large male bear who dominated the weir last season is also back. He is readily recognizeable by one gimpy rear leg. It had an injury of some sort causing his leg to be very thin and weaker than the other, but his spirit is still strong and he is a very able and accomplished fisher.
Bonnie continues to wander the river mouth as does Lenore and BP II (Burnt Peanut the second). All the bears look very health and in good shape for the hibernation season fast approaching. BP II looks like he could roll like a ball. He is sooo round and his fur is very lush and long. Lenore has also recovered from the long summer of nursing a hungry and demanding cub. She had a minor tiff with a second female bear who seemed to hang around close by all summer. I wonder if it may be a sibling of hers?
A pair of sub-adult females showed up a few days ago to put on a show of bear wrestling and boxing in the pool. They develope skills with these friendly matches that may be used in years to come when they will have to protect their cubs and themselves.
A large male flopped down in the pool opposite the finger a few days ago and proceeded to have a bath, using a dead salmon as soap. He rubbed this odorous morsel all over his belly and private parts as he laid on his back in the warm water.
The whole river system and the forest need a good rain. It would help the fish out with the higher, healthier water flows required to prepare for their final mission of life. After having travelled so many miles, facing uncountable dangers they will be pairing up as the female salmon prepare their redd. Once the nest is finished, she will lay her eggs and the male will fertilize them immediately. She will gently cover the fertilized eggs with gravel and float away to die within a few days. Both hers and her mates bodies will then feed the river's inhabitants, the predators and the forest to complete a wonderful, healthy circle of life.

Mating bears excitement

Bruno is hanging around Glendale Cove keeping constant vigil on 2 sweethearts. He is losing weight rapidly as he chases back and forth between the 2 girls and tries to keep another male suitor at bay. This younger smaller male is very good looking, no scars or dents in his well groomed hide. We generally see Bruno lurking in the shadows of the estuary treeline, as we watch one of his mates grazing on the sedges or rolling rocks over in the intertidal zone. If she gets too far for him to monitor, he will come roaring, calling and chuffing out of the shadows in most dramatic fashion, one designed to scare the pants off tourists and other bears allike. His potential mates are playing hard to get with just enough enticement to keep Bruno interested and busy.
We still see Lenore and BPII, as we called her cub after the original Burnt Peanut, around the cove, until Bruno et al get to chasing around. When he is so aggresive, she moves with her young charge over to Siwash Bay, where she is secure and unbothered by her former mate. She has provided our tourists with plenty of " ahhs and ooohs" moments and her 5 month old cub has stolen the hearts of more than 1 animal lover. He, I think he is a he, could be adopted out to most anyone as he entertains himself with a stick or a tree stump to climb, or a rock to roll over. Bull Kelp keeps him active as he pretends it is a most dangerous snake on the beach and needs to be subdued thoroughly. Lenore has been encouraging the youngster to begin swimming lessons, much to his chagrin. He complains the whole time she has him in the water, even though he hitches a ride on her broad back. Once near the shore, Mom shakes him off her back so he can swim to shore on his own. His thin hair pasted to his head makes him look very "wet rat" like as he shakes the water out of his ears.
The Bald Eagles are still setting on their nest in the corner of the cove. There must be young eaglets in there by now, but we have seen no sign of them yet. This nest is one of the most rewarding sights to see for our tourists, once they finally see it. It is well camoflaged in the open making it difficult to spot for the untrained eye. The setting eagle's head just appears above the rim of the large nest. Turkey Vultures and Band tailed pigeons have been spotted in the area, even though they are outside their traditional range. Merganser chicks and cute little Ruffed Grouse have been spotted in the river and the forest trying to keep up to their mothers.
A cougar was spotted on one of the trail cams last week. We have seen tracks before, but never the beast. Black-tailed deer fawns and their parents must be more vigilant than ever with this new predator in the area.
The Coho salmon fry arrived for our hatchery demonstration project last week. All have survived the stressful helicopter flight from The Oyster River Hatchery and the relocation to a new water source. Feeding once a day now till August or September when some of our tours will begin planting them into the river channels. This was a very exciting part of the tracking tour last season. It helped our guests get a feeling of trying to give something back to Mother Nature. Thats all the news from the cove for now. Daylight hours have started to lessen already, so take time out to enjoy our natural world, wherever you are. Cheers, Bob

Grizz Arrival

Hello Bear Enthusiasts: After a very late spring on the west coast of B.C., the bears have finally arrived. I saw the first grizz on May 4, Bruno, a large male whom we have watched for the last 2 years. He is identified by the large white scar on his right hip, a possible war wound from an encounter with another bear in defense of a mate. Then the evening of May 15 I saw another grizzly. He stayed on the beach for about 45 seconds, just long enough for him to size me up as I was sizing him up. I saw both bears while accompanied by guests on May 19. We had a good look at this new male. He is a large, handsome, golden brown with shaggy dark brown head and legs.
May 20, the first of the females showed up. Lenore with BPII, after it's namesake "Burnt Peanut" who died 2 years ago. Then a sub-adult, possibly Bonnie or Clyde showed up at nursery point. A couple days later, possibly Bella with Casper, a 16 month old cub, arrived. All the bears seem to be very comfortable with us except for the males, which shows me they have been here before.
The birds are very active now too. Pairs of Caspian Terns, loons, and ducks of many varieties are cruising the cove in preparation for mating. The eagle is setting on her nest in the corner of the estuary. The first common merganser has showed us her seven chicks.
The drama continues as I watched an eagle attack a goose. After several dives, the successful eagle splashed into the water and breast-stroked to shore, towing the goose. A few minutes later the better fight occured as this eagle had to defend its supper from attacks by other eagles. I don't know which eagle won the best cuts of goose, but several managed to share.
Pacific white-sided dolphins have been very active throughout the inlet. 50 to 60 dolphins have been seen in several feeding frenzies lately. They are feeding on schools of small fish such as herring and possibly coho smolts, and anchovies. A humpback whale even cruised through the inlet and paid a visit to our cove.
Overall, as the bears arrival was late, other wildlife took up the slack providing us with spectacular sights of the continuing stuggle for survival along Knight Inlet.